It is cold in Prayagraj, foggy with a chance of rain. Yet, on Monday (January 13), tens of thousands are expected to arrive in the city, to camp on the banks of the Ganga. They will stay in tents and bathe in the river, the most devout taking a dip at dawn while stars are still twinkling.
Prayagraj is hosting the Maha Kumbh this time, or the Poorna Kumbh, held every 12 years. Many myths are prevalent around the Kumbh Mela, many theories about its exact origin. Some believe the festival finds mention in the Vedas and Puranas. Some say it is far more recent, going back barely two centuries. What is known for certain is that today, it is one of the largest gatherings of devotees witnessed anywhere on earth.
What is the Kumbh Mela, and why is it held in four cities periodically? What is Ardh Kumbh and Maha Kumbh? What is the origin of this festival, and why do millions attend it?
The answers, as in many questions about Hinduism, lie in a mixture of myths, history, and the enduring faith of an ancient people, trusting as much in the munificence of invisible deities as in tangible life-givers like rivers.